My IC-7300 "Big Controller" (part 2)

The Wiring ...

I finally found some time to continue working on this project.
See part 1 here

I have not drawn a complete wiring diagram because some things may change during the programming, after which I can make a final diagram.

So I'll just describe what I did in text form.

(source https://store.arduino.cc/arduino-mega-2560-rev3)

I used an Arduino Mega 2560, see pinout above.

Part of this project can probably also be made with an Arduino UNO, or even a Nano.
Just change the pins and change the code accordingly and see how far you get ...
If you need more pins for buttons, you can apply the analog port trick: add up to 5 buttons on one analog pin with a resistor network.
(see https://wiki.dfrobot.com/Arduino_LCD_KeyPad_Shield__SKU__DFR0009_ ) 

The TFT display can be changed for a simpler I²C controlled LCD display to save some wires and memory.

Also, I didn't use the extra hardware serial ports on the Mega, but I used SoftwareSerial, so the code should work on the UNO and Nano as well.
The only problem will be that you can't use a rotary encoder AND a SoftwareSerial port at the same time, since both need the interrupt pins, and the UNO/Nano only have two of those (D2 and D3).
So you will have to make a menu with some buttons for navigating. See this example:
https://educ8s.tv/arduino-nokia-5110-menu/

Now here is what I wired so far ...

First come all the pushbuttons:

4 BIG Memory buttons (short press = once, long press = repeat)

M1 <> A11          Send MEM1

M2 <> A12          Send MEM2

M3 <> A13          Send MEM3

M4 <> A14          Send MEM4

I will probably change these, as I can only send the VOICE memories via CI-V command.
It's a shame that Icom didn't provide commands for the CW/RTTY memories!
One solution is to mimic the resistor network at MIC pin 3, and use transistors to key them, like used by ON7EQ in his Arduino memory keyer.
(see https://www.qsl.net/on7eq/en/ under "Projects": ARDUINO ICOM Auto Keyer)

8 SMALL pushbuttons

B1 <> D31           Cycle TX POWER : 5W > 10W > 50W > 100W (levels settable via menu)

B2 <> D32           TUNE (put rig in mode CW , set power to 5W* as long as button is
                             pressed, then reset to previous MODE and POWER).
                             * Tuning power settable via menu.

B3 <> D33           BAND DOWN

B4 <> D34           BAND UP

B5 <> D35           TOGGLE USB AF <> IF

B6 <> D36           TOGGLE KEY TYPE STRAIGHT KEY <> PADDLE

B7 <> D37           Cycle Band stack registers

B8 <> D38           PF Key ... not sure what to do yet, maybe assign some functions per menu,
                             initiate a CW decoder, ... ?  

Rotary Encoder (model without breakout board)

GND <> GND

A        <> D2

B        <> D3

SW   <>  D4

Color Display 160 x 128 pixels =  Sainsmart 1.8" TFT ST7735,
see info https://randomnerdtutorials.com/guide-to-1-8-tft-display-with-arduino/

Connect these pins
Arduino UNO     or    Mega

LED        3.3 V

SCK        13         or       52

SDA        11         or       51

A0/DC      9

RESET     8

CS           10         or      53

GND      GND

VCC       5 V

The SPI MISO signal (Master IN Slave OUT, pin 12 (UNO) or pin 50 (Mega)) is not used for the TFT display, it is WRITE only. I'll have to connect it later if I would do something with the SD card.

Switches 
I used DPDT switches, but using only one contact, so SPDT switches are also OK. 
Also, I mounted too many switches because I had the space on the front panel, but don't really know what to use them for, hi. 
Well, I may find a use for them in the future ... anyone have a good idea?

From left to right

SW1       ICOM MIC <> HEIL MIC, this switches only the microphone line.
   Common = MIC to transceiver pin 1
   Left = MIC in from front J1, pin 1
   Right = MIC in from HEIL Headset , J3

Problem to be solved : I have a Heil Proset Elite with the dynamic element, not the iC element.
So the level is a bit low, and I have to adjust the transceiver settings. I tried using a step transformer, but that didn't help much. To be investigated ...

SW2 future use

SW3 future use

SW4       SPEAKER <> HEADPHONES
   Common = SPK IN from RIG  from J11
   Left = External SPKR to J10
   Right = HEIL Headphone to J3 , with in series 6 Ohm , parallel on J3 2.2 Ohm (attenuator)  

   The speaker output from the IC-7300 must be connected ot the controller, and a good quality
    external station speaker if you need speaker audio

Jacks 
FRONT, left to right

J1            Icom Original MIC input (8 pin round connector)

NOTE: For the HM-219 and the SM-50, also the FREQ UP/DOWN line must be wired if you want to use the UP/DOWN buttons, or another keypad.

NOTE : for Desk Microphones SM-30 and SM-50, the +8V line must be wired! (= Power supply for the electret microphone is taken from this supply, nont from the DC on the MIC pin!)
Connect PTT input (pin 5) to PTT line on MIC OUT Cable, via a 1N4148 diode (cathode to J1)

J2            HEADPHONE OUT for HEIL Headset (TIP + RING connected)

J3            MIC input from HEIL headset (NO DC needed for dynamic element)

BACK, left to right

J4            MAINS POWER INPUT

Connect J5 to J8 all in parallel : GND to GND, and TIP to TIP


J5            COOTIE KEY (optional)


J6            BUG (optional)


J7            STRAIGHT KEY
Connect also RING to RING at J8 and J9

J8            PADDLE for electronic key


J9            KEY OUT to rig (connect to rig KEY IN)   

J10         SPEAKER OUT (connect a station speaker here)

J11         SPEAKER IN (connect to the EXT Speaker output of the rig)

J11         CI-V (connect to the CI-V port at the rig)


Connect per following diagram, the RX pin must be an interrupt capable pin.

J12         FOOT or HAND PTT SWITCH IN
               (use an appropriate type of jack for your model of switch)

               Connect PTT line to PTT on MIC OUT Cable, via 1N4148 diode (cathode to J12)

MIC out cable to Icom MIC IN


Wire these lines MIC, MIC GND, PTT GND, PTT,  +8V , UP/DOWN

Internal Power supply

GND <> GND

+5V  <> Arduino 5V

I haven't done this yet, I'm still powering the Mega via the USB connector while I'm testing some code.

RESET buttonconnect to Arduino RESET pin and GND

So far it looks like a rats nest ... I  hope to find the time to rebuild the whole thing nicely when the programming and test phase are over ...

To be continued in part 3 ...

73,
Luc ON7DQ/KF0CR

OST Morse Box build by Gilbert ONL12523

For the circuit description of this project, see my previous post here

Gilbert has built the OST Morse Box into a nice cabinet, I think it deserves it's own page here!

He used an old cabinet that was deeper than needed, so he shortened the cabinet and the cover, to make the PCB fit nicely. This is the result.
Note that he didn't opt for a built-in Touch Paddle.

He added a separate linear power suply, for a "clean" power signal, and to avoid wear and tear on the USB port of the Arduino.
(Note: the mains lead could probably use a grommet and some better strain relief ... hi)

Drilling and filing all the holes and cutouts for the connectors would be quite cumbersome, so just leaving out a rectangular section at the back solves all that.

And this is what you get when it's all connected, in this case wired for the Icom IC-706MkIIG.

What do you think ?
Give your comments below ...

73,
Luc ON7DQ

The OST Morse Box

OST is the local UBA amateur radio club in the city of Ostend, Belgium.
We have a small group of people that hold a weekly CW practice session on the local club frequency in the 2m band.

Some years ago (in 2018) I had the idea to build a Morse Box, to be able to have 'Tone CW' practice and QSO's on the 2m band, using FM mode.

I started a breadboard prototype with some info from the internet. Many such projects exist on the internet, from the very crude NE555 code practice oscillators, followed by a LPF to have 'some kind of a sine wave' ... but I wanted something better!

So I found a good circuit with a twin-T network, and finally got a working prototype.
I could connect the original microphone and I could select PHONE or CW with a switch.
It had a built-in straight key (the 'on hook' switch from an old telephone).
Later, I even added a touch paddle circuit with an Arduino Nano, what a luxury! 

This was the ugly beast.

It did work ... but I couldn't expect any of our club members to copy this thing.
The project was put aside and I lost interest for a while ...

In comes Gilbert!

Gilbert, ONL12523, is one of our SWL members, with a great interest in homebrew and programming, and he accepted my challenge to design a printed circuit board for the project. This was in the midst of the Covid-19 lockdown, so what better to do when confined to your home? 

But Gilbert looked at my design ... and saw that is was 'not good'. This could be made much better and more efficient when most of the functions were integrated in one small Arduino Nano. To make a long story short ... read below what he came up with, we proudly present: 

THE OST MORSE BOX!

The OST Morse Box is a versatile circuit that you can fit between the microphone and the microphone input of any transceiver. It was mainly designed for use with a VHF/UHF transceiver, but can be used for many other purposes.

The main goal is to be able to hold CW practice sessions on the 2m or 70cm band, where the students themselves can reply to the teacher in FM-modulated CW.
Another use is to make a few practice QSO's in a safe environment, before "throwing yourself" on the HF bands ...

In addition, the circuit contains a number of extra features, making this a very interesting club-building project.

By using an inexpensive Arduino Nano the following functions are available:

• DDS Tone-Generator in software, for a perfectly pure sine wave 
• Microphone is switched off while transmitting CW to avoid disturbing background noise
• Automatic activation of the transceiver PTT
• Adjustable DELAY for the PTT, from 0.5 ... 10 seconds
• Variable CW speed of 10 ... 35 words per minute (WPM)
• OLED display to read the set parameters and texts
• Keying with Straight Key, Paddle or a built-in Touch Paddle!
• Paddle polarity settable to NORMAL / REVERSE
• Built-in "Keep Alive" circuit for use with a Power Bank
• Adaptable to all existing transceivers, using the appropriate microphone plugs. The basic model is based on the widely distributed RJ-45 connectors
• Power via the USB connection of the Arduino, via the microphone jack or from an external power supply
• Use as a separate electronic keyer for transceivers without a built-in keyer
• Random CW generator, display characters in the serial monitor and on the OLED display.
• Beacon function, can also be used as a memory keyer (1 memory of 80 characters).
• Additional functions can be set via AT commands via the serial monitor
• Entering and transmitting text via the serial monitor
• Windows program for controlling the OST Morse Box (then no need for the Arduino IDE)
• Built-in TEST function for touch paddle

There is 32 page manual in DUTCH and ENGLISH, which was my input to the project.

It describes all functions and detailed building instructions, from building a very basic circuit to the full option Morse Box.

All files needed for making the PCB are on github (see link at the bottom). Make it yourself, order it from a local manufacturer, or order them cheaply in China (send me a mail for more info). You can also change the PCB to your liking, it was developed with the free edition of DipTrace (https://diptrace.com/). You may want to make the holes for the resistors a bit larger, and modify the PCB for the type of RELAY that you have.
UPDATE: the PCB layout has been modified for an OMRON relay, which should be more easy to source.

If you or your club make one or more of these PCB's, please send me a mail, we would love to hear from you: how many were built, were you succesful, what did like or dislike?
We also would like to keep track of how many of these Morse Boxes were built.

Send us a picture of what you made!

Versatility: not all options are mandatory, those who wish to do so, can partially fill the PCB to obtain only the desired functions. This is clearly indicated in the construction manual.

This is what the full option PCB looks like. External components are an OLED display, speaker, touch paddle contacts, LED's and some buttons and switches.
And your own straight key or paddle of course!

Putting it in a box is also up to you, we have no fitting cabinets in mind. If you find one that fits, let us know.

UPDATE: Gilbert has finished making a homebrew cabinet that looks really nice, see this post here.

Good luck in building, and have fun using the OST Morse Box!

All documentation is here on github: https://github.com/on7dq/OST-Morse-Box

ON7DQ NanoVNA Presentation

On December 20, 2019, I gave a presentation on the theory and practice of using a NanoVNA, mainly targeted at hams and homebrewers in the Ostend radio club.

The presentation was in Dutch, and has been recorded on video for YouTube.
The slides have also been translated in English.
all material is free to view or download, links are at the end of this post.

Over 50 people attended, our new club house was really full, and some people even came from far-away clubs to hear my talk ... quite a succes !
Here some pictures of the public ... and yours truly in action.

They certainly got a lot of stuff to digest, the presentation lasted over 4 hours, we started at 20:00 local time, and ended well past midnight ;-)
In the middle we had a break of course, everyone, inlcuding myself, needed a drink !

Part 1 was all the theory you can't live without : complex impedance and admittance, transmission lines, reflection coefficient, return loss, SWR , S-parameters, and of course a basic understanding of the Smith Chart.

Part 2 was all about scalar and vectorial network analyzers, how to calibrate and measure, and also using the excellent NanoVNA Saver program (link here )

Of course we discussed the measurement of classical one-port  (antennas !) and two-port devices (filters !) first.

Everything was shown with some practical examples, using little circuit boards that I prepared, e.g. here a complex load with R and C on the little board to the left, that was then matched with an L/C network (the board to the right). The "matching board" can house several L- or PI-configurations, I got the idea from a W2AEW video on YouTube (this one).

A simple 30m Low-Pass Filter was also built in the same way.

Some extra features were the use in TDR mode, to determine the distance to a fault on the cable, or just to measure its length, and determine the characterisitic impedance.

For the application as a "component tester" , I made a small component adapter, see picture below.
2 pins of a 4-pin female header are connected to ground, the other 2 to the center pin of a male SMA connector.
On a row of jumper pins, I made a SHORT, an OPEN and a 49.9 Ohm SMD resistor, as a quick and simple calibration set.
When the CAL set is unplugged, most wired components can be plugged in, and for measuring SMD's , I bent out the middle prongs, just hold the SMD component against the prongs to measure it.

Finally, the NanoVNA can also be used as a simple signal generator, and with some caution, even as a very basic spectrum monitor (I wouldn't call it a spectrum analyzer though).

Reference materials :

Links to the videos on YouTube (in Dutch)
Part 1 : Theory
Part 2 : Practice

Slides in Dutch are here
Slides in English are here

Enjoy !

Luc ON7DQ

A "HOT" Sota Activation

DM/NW-187 - Hoher Eimberg On the way to the summit ... view of Ettelsberg and Hochheideturm Like last year, I took a short midweek vacation with friends, in Willingen in the Sauerland Region in Germany. The weather promised to be nice, but as it turned out ... we ended up in the middle of a heat wave ! I tried to sneak in a few SOTA activations, but being on a tight time budget, I only made it on one. The day of my activation was also the HOTTEST day of that week ! In the morning of Thursday July 25th, we visited the local Willingen Brewery, and my only chance for activating was in the afternoon. Since I was not driving my own car, my friends dropped me off at the parking spot for the summit Hoher Eimberg, at position 51.303799, 8.603698. From there, it's only a 20 minutes walk to the ridge, so I easily survived the heat ... I had a good training in EA7 earlier this year, hi.

From the sign in the picture above, it is a short walk to the East to find a nice picknick table to set up your "field shack". Only problem ... everything is exposed to the sun, no shade to be found anywhere, or you should crawl under the bench ... The temperature was 37°C .. and rising ... So I tried to make some shade for the KX3 with my clipboard and a towel. The antenna was the usual 9.15m endfed, tied as a sloper to the 6m fishing pole. I stayed on the summit for a full hour, I had enough water, but also this contraption :  Two fans from old PC Power Supplies, strapped toghether, with a DPDT switch to put them in parallel or in series. Power came from the main KX3 battery, via a homemade PowerPole splitter.

The fans were pointed at the KX3 most of the time, to make sure I could continue on 15W.  But from time to time, also the operator needed some breeze ...  COOL MAN !

The heat was all over Europe, and so probably also influenced the chasers, I got only 20 QSO's in a full hour, but that included 3 S2S, so not bad after all. 73, Luc - ON7DQ