K6ARK Mini Microphones for KX3 and IC705

The MH3, the standard microphone for the Elecraft KX3 is rather big, and the Icom mic for the IC-705 is not much better. I was looking to replace those with something smaller.

There is a nice design for a 3D printed mini microphone by Adam, K6ARK. The 3D files are here:

https://www.printables.com/model/320559-mini-microphone-for-qmx-trusdx-usdx-kx2-and-kx3 

There are build instructions here: https://k6ark.com/mini-mic-build-instructions/

Now, I don't have a 3D printer, but a good friend was so nice to print me two of these mics, one in orange, one in white.

KX3

I built the KX3 model first, that was a piece of cake, just putting an electret element and a pushbutton inside, and connecting a 3.5mm TRRS cable ... ready !
I did not use the 3.5mm panel jack, but made a direct cable connection.
A long ferrite bead over the cable, near the connector, helps to keep RF out of the rig (see top picture).

This is the result after clicking both halves toghether.

IC-705

I studied the circuit of the HM-243 microphone, this looked a bit more complicated.

The shield is the main GND line. 

RING1 is a seperate line for the 8V DC supply, needed by the electret capsule.

TIP is the microphone signal, but also the PTT line. PTT is active when a 33k resistor is connected to ground.

Finally, RING2 is used for the four programmable buttons (A, B UP and DOWN), connecting four different resistors to that line.

While I was figuring out how to connect everything in such a small space, I got the crazy idea to add a second button to use as the 'A' button. It would enable me to send the first voice memory from the microphone, without even touching the rig.

I distilled my own circuit diagram from the original circuit.

I used a combination of SMD and normal components, and it looked like this:

Ferrite beads over the signal lines help to protect against RF ingress. Then, I covered everything with some heat shrink tubing.

The first test with the microphone was a bit of a disappointment. The microphone level was way too low, compared to the HM-243. 

I made a test setup, putting a speaker with a fixed 1 kHz tone, at 10 cm from the test capsule, and measured the output on my oscilloscope. I found output levels from 34 mV ptp to 84 mV ptp, quite a difference.
So I selected the one with the highest output, and that worked out OK. I got about the same modulation as with the original microphone.

I closed the box with some superglue, and this was the end result

Happy tinkering !

73,

Luc ON7DQ

Yet Another AtTiny85 Keyer

After a renewed discussion on the SOTA Reflector about using a Quansheng UV-K5 handheld for CW, I built yet another AtTiny85 keyer, by just using the chip, and not replicating the DigiSpark layout.
(see my Digispark keyer in a previous post here).

Leaving out all unneeded components made it a lot smaller and lighter, this is the (very) simple circuit.

I built this circuit on a piece of perfboard, it measures only 70 x 12 x 9 mm.

If built with SMD components, it would even be much smaller, maybe it can then be built inside a paddle ?

I found a small plastic box that used to contain some O-rings from the DIY shop, and it fits the keyer nicely, powering it from a 650 mAh Li-Ion cell from a cordless phone.

Total weight , including the cable, but not the paddle, is only 48 gram.

Now, instead of building a keyer into a paddle ... I had another idea : buid the paddle inside the keyer !

I found two very small pushbuttons from old 3.5" floppy disk drives (the write-protect switches).

I glued two of those in the corner of the plastic enclosure of my keyer, and connected them in parallel to the paddle input connector.

And while I was at it, I also added a 4-pin header to the battery, to connect a Chinese charging board. Inserting the pins the wrong way does no harm, nothing happens, since only two of the pins are connected.

For the Quansheng, I built two adapter cables, one with the cut-off 2.5mm connector, to listen to the receiver on speaker. The other cable has both the 3.5mm and the 2.5mm connector, and is meant to be used with headphones.

Both cables have a pushbutton that serves as a straight key. 

Total weight of the keyer with the small adapter cable is 59 gram, with the larger adapter it's 80 gram.

I posted a short video of the keyer on my YouTube channel.

If you have questions about this project, feel free to mail me at my QRZ.com address.

Happy tinkering !

73,

Luc ON7DQ